Bobina de Tesla Prender Bombillos ahorradores y leds

Bobina de Tesla Prender Bombillos ahorradores y leds

Bobina de Tesla miniatura que utiliza un circuito que no requiere de fuente de alto voltaje, y es muy fácil de hacer. Esta bobina es capaz de excitar lámparas fluorescentes y de neón. El circuito que se usa es el slayer exciter de Gbluer, el cual requiere de un mínimo de partes y es muy fácil de armar.
Algunas recomendaciones si no funciona: Las tres vueltas del primario deben ir "flojas", si se aprietan al secundario no funcionará, también deben ponerse como a 1/3 de la altura, no en la base del secundario. Puede ser que la polaridad esté invertida, prueba conectar al revés los cables de la bobina primaria. También prueba poner dos leds en serie en lugar de uno. Finalmente, asegurate de quitar el esmalte del alambre magneto de la bobina secundaria en donde hace conexión con la pata del transistor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T15cJdTvnfw

Plotter CDROM with Raspberry Pi

http://www.homofaciens.de/technics-machines-plotter-cdrom_en_navion.htm

http://makezine.com/2015/07/20/build-drawbot-two-cd-drives-raspberry-pi/ 

Plotter CDROM

 

The video about the plotter

Mechanics

Figure 1:
The battery powered WLAN plotter shown here is composed of parts from two old optical drives, four H bridges, a servo and a Raspberry Pi.

Figure 2:
From the optical drives we need the mechanisms used to move the laser unit. That carriage is driven by a stepper motor. Unfortunately not all optical drives use a stepper motor to actuate the laser unit - my hit rate was 2 to 1.

Figure 3:
I have connected both mechanisms perpendicularly to each other with a stripe of perforated metal and some epoxy.

Figure 4:
The pen holder is also made of a perforated metal stripe glued at the upper laser head. A servo is used to bend that metal stripe and so to lift or lower the pen.

Electronics

Figure 5:
The stepper motor has four pins:
A pair of pins is internally connected to an electromagnetic coil. With a multimeter switched to continuity you can figure out which pairs are connected to a coil.

Figure 6:
Don't remove the foil at the pins, because you will very likely also rip the copper wires off the pins by what the motor gets inevitably destroyed!
The old supply lines with the foil can be trimmed.
The new cabling has to be soldered to the pins.

Figure 7:
The board has four output terminals:
Each pair of outputs has to be connected to one of the coils at the stepper motor. Furthermore there are four input pins which have to be connected to the GPIOs of the Raspberry Pi. Finally the 5V supply voltage has to be connected to the terminals "Ground" and "VCC" which is the positive terminal of the supply voltage.
A single coil of the motor draws a current of almost 500mA, which is above the maximum current provided by the 5V pin of the Raspberry Pi!
Consequently you should use an old computer power supply or a battery to provide the electric energy needed to operate the mechanism.

Figure 8:
Schematic of the WLAN plotter.

Software

The software runs in command mode, thus you can login through ssh to operate the WLAN plotter. You can find the source code at the column Download.

Figure 9:
The software can compute bitmaps (*.bmp) with a resolution of 55 x 55 pixels and a color depth of 24 bits. Any other type of bitmap will be ignored. Pixel with a red blue or green component less than 200 are treated as "black" and will be drawn. All other pixels are treated as "white" and are skipped.
The supported vector format is "Scalable Vector Graphics (*.svg)" with some special things to note:
No areas are drawn, only their outlines. All paths (also the outlines of an area) must be set to "Polygon". I have tested the functionality with graphics edited and exported as svg by Libre Office Draw.

Have fun!

Figure 10:
With the special design of the plotter you can use a waterresistant pen to draw on nearly any plain surface. The area covered by the pen is approximately 35 times 35 millimeters. 250 steps are needed to move the pen for 35 millimeters.
The lettering shown here is clearly larger than the area covered by the plotter. After drawing one of the characters, the whole plotter is moved manually to the right.

<<< CNC v2.0         V-Plotter >>>

 

Circuito para Encoder Sensor Ranurado , Opto Interrupter Circuit with ITR9606

Circuito para Encoder Sensor Ranurado

Opto Interrupter Circuit with ITR9606

http://www.electroschematics.com/10494/arduino-optical-position-rotary-encoder/
 
Photo-Interrupter
Front end of an ordinary optical position encoder, used for these tasks, is a slotted Photo Interrupter /Opto-Interrupter module with an IR LED & a Photo Transistor/Diode mounted facing each other enclosed in plastic body. When light emitted by the IR LED is blocked because of the alternating slots of the encoder disc (also known as index disc), conduction level of the photo transistor/diode changes. This change can be detected by a discrete hardware or by a microcontroller. In short, a photo-interrupter is composed of an infrared emitter on one side and an infrared detector on the other By emitting a beam of infrared light from one side to the other, the photo-interrupter can detect when an object passes between them, breaking the beam.

Encoder/Index Disc
As we need to create pulses, an encoder disc/index disc is very necessary here. An easy way to make it is with a thin transparent acrylic, thin transparent adhesive transparency sheet and a laser printer. Take a drawing software and draw the black stripes as shown in the picture. Print it to the transparency sheet and fix it on the round-shaped thin transparent acrylic. As an alternative, you can make the disc from black acrylic and cut out the white spaces.

An important note: Physical width of stripes and spaces is a most critical factor. Look at the datasheet of the photo-interrupter to find its slit width. It is better to set minimum witdh of the stripes (and also of the spaces) two times (x2) the slit width of the photo-interrupter. For example, if the slit width is 1mm, the width of the stripes and spaces should be 2 mm. If the RPM of the disc is 60, then we have 1 disc turn/second. If the disc has 36 stripes then the pulse frequency is 36Hz, which can easily be handled by the photo-interrupter.
The Hardware
To get started, just create a small test circuit as shown here with a photo- interrupter and an Arduino. This allows you to experiment and make sure all things works as per your expectation. The 10K resistor (R2) is a pull-up resistor. Value of the first resistor (R1) depends on the photo-interrupter you use. In this set-up, the onboard LED (at D13) of the Arduino board is usually in off mode, and when the beam broken the LED goes on. Auxillary output available from D12 of the Arduino can be used to monitor the encoded signal on an oscilloscope, for example.

The Arduino Sketch

/*
-Arduino Position Encoder
-Using a generic photo-interrupter
-Basic Test Sketch 1 / June 2014
-Tested at TechNode Protolabz
-www.electroschematics.com/
*/
const int encoderIn = 8; // input pin for the interrupter 
const int statusLED = 13; // Output pin for Status indicator
const int pulseOutput = 12; // Pulse output pin for external interfacing
int detectState=0; // Variable for reading the encoder status
void setup()
{
   pinMode(encoderIn, INPUT); //Set pin 8 as input
   pinMode(statusLED, OUTPUT); //Set pin 13 as output
   pinMode(pulseOutput, OUTPUT); // Set Pin 12 as output
}
void loop() {
   detectState=digitalRead(encoderIn);
   if (detectState == HIGH) { //If encoder output is high
      digitalWrite(statusLED, HIGH); //Turn on the status LED
      digitalWrite(pulseOutput,HIGH); // Give a logic-High level output
   }
   else {
      digitalWrite(statusLED, LOW); //Turn off the status LED
      digitalWrite(pulseOutput,LOW); // Give a logic-Low level output
   }
}

Test Procedure
Bring the photo-interrupter connected with the hardware to your encoder disc and do the test. Connect the D12 output to an oscilloscope and run your encoder disc by hand, or by using a low rpm dc motor. If you don’t have an oscilloscope, watch the onboard LED (D13) to note the pulse output. In this case, try to turn the disc slowly by hand to see the pulse activity directly.

This is the very basic code you need. We have the hardware and the basic software up and running. Now you can upgrade it to whatever you want it to do.

Initial set up of the testing process @ author’s lab

Improving The Code
There are two basic ways to read a microcontroller’s digital input; Polling, and Interrupt. With polling, the system reads the input all the time inside a loop (as used in this sketch). Main drawback of this polling method is that it is difficult to do other things while polling. The controller does the only job of reading the input and processing the data. But, when using interrupts the system can do any other job without any mishaps. When an input pulse arrives, the system stops it’s job, jumps to the interrupt routine and then returns to the job before. So, working with interrupts is what better when its comes to this type of encoding tasks. In a forthcoming article you can see many more about this idea!

Como cargar bootloader de un Arduino a otro, Beeduino : Homemade Arduino Uno for $6

http://www.instructables.com/id/Beeduino-Homemade-Arduino-on-a-Budget/step7/Bootloader-Burning-using-another-Arduino/

....

Step 7: Bootloader Burning using another Arduino

Boot loader on a micro controller is basically its operating system. It tells it how to communicate and respond. The arduino boot loader allows it to be programmed via USBASP. First download the latest Arduino IDE here and install it.
For burning the boot loader you need an Arduino Uno. Follow the following instructions carefully

1. Connect the Uno and select the port. Open the example ArduinoISP and program it to the Uno.
2. Connect the Uno to Beeduino as shown in the second image.
3. In the Arduino IDE, In Tool > Programmer, select Arduino as ISP
4. Then in Tools click on Burn Boot loader. If all is well the boot loader should burn in a few seconds.

If there is a problem do the following checks.

1. Double check all the connections. They should be firm.
2. Remove and redo the connections.
3. Recheck the board to see if you made any soldering mistake.
4. Remove the USB cable from PC and reconnect, then try again.

I hope you are able to burn the boot loader successfully.